Few movies in movie history open with a mouth-watering experience of watching expert chefs cook. The burst of popularity surrounding The Bear has only further reinforced this idea. Even Hannibal, a show about literally eating human beings, was buoyed by its lavish visual setpieces focused on the preparation of organs (for consumption). Showcasing a devotion to craft, and even intimacy, via food is far from a new concept. Yet few movies reach the emotional highs of The Taste of Things. Directed by Trần Anh Hùng, the story of a chef and the woman he loves quickly leaves its mark. It’s another borderline masterpiece from 2023 and stands out among the year’s best films.
Set in France in 1885, French restaurateur and culinary master Dodin Bouffant (Benoît Magimel) wields extraordinary influence over haute cuisine. Part of his power stems from the talent exhibited by his long-time chef, Eugénie (Juliette Binoche). The partnership between the two crosses boundaries between employer and employee, yet romance has not quite taken hold. As they circle each other as partners in every sense, Dodin finally breaks. He will craft a meal for Eugénie.
A simple series of camera shots depicting prep work, the act of cooking, and a few glances makes The Taste of Things feel like an intrusion. The intimacy and chemistry between Binoche and Magimel burst off the screen. As we watch their quiet and unique courtship, the emotional repression collapses between them. Their genuine love touches at the heart of what it means to be human. Yet when that connection and bond is crafted, we are at our most vulnerable.
Trần Anh Hùng Enters a New Stage of His Career
Director Trần is far from new in the world of cinema. His debut feature, The Scent of Green Papaya, was released in 1993. Yet Trần’s continued ascent to the top of the cinematic world was far from easy. From 2000 to 2009, he only released two films. The Taste of Things (or its original name – The Pot-au-Feu) is only his third feature since 2010. Yet time away from the medium allowed Trần to develop as an artist. The visual flare and emotional brilliance of The Taste of Things are only possible when you are willing to dissect everything about a relationship.
This introspection not only crafted a brilliant screenplay. It convinced its two stars to pair with their ex-husband/wife. Binoche and Magimel were married from 1998 to 2003, yet their bond remains strong. It adds to the intensity of the romance on screen, and one cannot help but realize their relationship left deep impressions on each other. Trần taps into the intimacy that cannot be faked and uses it to life his already brilliantly written work.
While The Taste of Things features plenty of brilliant monologues by its stars, Trần lets the visuals speak for themselves. It adds to the all-consuming nature of their relationship, and when they choose to let each other into their emotional complexities, it feels as if true breakthroughs occur on screen. Trần captures a longing with his camera that cannot be faked.
This also creates the only downside, as the story gets lost several times on the way to its destination. That is not to say The Taste of Things is messy, just that it substitutes aspects of efficient storytelling for capturing the food making process. There are few things more soothing than capturing food preparation. While the editing is sharp and upbeat, the story takes a backseat to visual splendor. With the pathos on display, this becomes one of the lone issues of the movie.
It would also be impossible to ignore the incredible craftwork on display. The cinematography from Jonathan Ricquebourg must be celebrated. His framing of shots of food helps the aromas lift off the stove. At times, it recalls Remy’s fantasies about flavor in Ratatouille. It’s mouth-watering in the best ways, but it also shows the workman like precision to craft excellence. Trần’s identified something unique here: how do you balance your time when you have a passion for greatness in your field, while becoming a devoted to a partner?
Meanwhile, the designs from Nu Yên-Khê Tran and Toma Baqueni stand out among the best visual works of the year. The period setting gives them plenty of inspiration. Yet the sets and costumes feel strikingly modern and appropriate within the setting. It’s a perfect blending of elements that raises the floor of The Taste of Things and supports the actors to give their best performances.
The Taste of Things Features a Brilliant Juliette Binoche
Binoche’s performance adds another masterclass performance to her already impressive career. The way she thoroughly dominates the screen cannot be understated. Even as she quickly steps into the frame to place down a meal, the entire room seems drawn to her. She’s alluring, but how she guards herself from pain showcases her brilliance as a performer. Ignoring the similarities to In the Mood For Love or Before Sunset is impossible. Binoche’s gravitational pull on the camera makes her its unquestioned heartbeat. It once again affirms the actress as a generational talent.
Ultimately, The Taste of Things makes an impassioned plea for vulnerability. Some of us will end up alone for part of our lives. Yet, in the moments we are not, how do we fill the days? Most importantly, can those we connect with understand our feelings towards them? The emotional rollercoaster that The Taste of Things is masterful. With nuances and tiny moments of passion dominating the screen, it’s inarguably the most romantic film of 2023.
Yet by the end of The Taste of Things, Trần has shifted the audience once more. We watch Magimel enter a new stage of his life, and as he does so, he must hold himself together. It leads to one of the most brilliant endings of 2023 and makes Trần a director requiring appointment viewing. This work is so powerful, heart-wrenching, and intimate that it will graft itself to your mind. Thus, while falling just short of masterpiece territory, The Taste of Things will be one to revisit for years.
IFC distributes The Taste of Things. It releases in limited theaters on February 9, 2024 before expanding on February 14th, 2024.
9/10
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